Like its barbers, the London burger scene is so dyed-in-the-wool — and so waistband-snappingly grand — that any attempt at reinventing the wheel should be met with a sympathetic pat on the back and a quick shove out the door.
For that reason, except for one notable basement BBQ temple, there’s relatively little recent innovation on this comprehensive list of the best burger joints the capital has to offer.
What there is, though, is an array of buns that segue from filthy upstart to full-blown classic via elevated pub grub and globally-influenced itinerancy; taking in refined restaurants, cacophonous dude-food dens, City diners and street food stands along the way.
In any case, they’re all the marvellous. Long live the London food trend that will never, ever die.
The Best Burger Joints In London
Hawksmoor
Surprised that the guys behind London’s best steak do an absolutely banging burger? Of course you’re not. Run an eye down the bar menu at the muscular Seven Dials flagship, where there’s a petit, perfect list of buns on offer: the Hawksmoor hamburger, topped with Ogleshield or Colston Basset Stilton, the masterful Kimchi Cheeseburger, and a frequently changing third option. They’re not cheap, but push the boat out and slosh one down with a Corpse Reviver cocktail or three, and you’ve got a truly banging night out.
What To Order: The Kimchi Cheeseburger – humming with zingy fermented cabbage and topped with beef short rib. It will warm your Seoul.
11 Langley Street, WC2H 9JG
thehawksmoor.com
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Lucky Chip Burgers
It’s odd that first-wave burger innovator Lucky Chip never really got the plaudits received by Meat Liquor, Patty & Bun or Byron. They’ve remained a de-facto pop-up, appearing at pubs across north and east London, after its permanent Ridley Road joint closed. But the burger-snaffling public should take note, as they’re arguably the best in town, knocking out pitch-perfect riffs on the classics (particularly the Big Mac-aping Royale Wit Cheese).
What To Order: The El Chappo. An aged beef patty topped with smoked bacon, jalapeños, blue cheese and aioli.
44 Essex Road, N1 8LN
luckychip.co.uk
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Bad Egg
This wantonly unctuous Tex-Mex diner, located down a side street behind the famous Barbican Centre, may be a brunch staple, but it’s sorely overlooked in the best burger stakes. More fool the masses: the patties themselves are 100 per cent rare breed beef, the sides are filthily delectable (pulled pork and kimchi fries, anyone?), sauces like gochujang chilli are essentially edible Korean crack, and the eponymous house bun is absolutely second to none. This kind of bad is very, very good.
What To Order: Behold! The Bad Egg Burger, which comes veritably slathered in spicy ‘nduja and Red Leicester fondue. We repeat, fondue.
1 Ropemaker Street, EC2Y 9AW
badegg.london
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The Duke of Richmond
Tom Oldroyd’s Dalston gastropub has quickly become a critical darling and local favourite, which is no surprise given the man’s CV – he basically kickstarted the small plates revolution as chef director at the critically acclaimed Polpo group, before refining it at his eponymous Angel restaurant. At The Duke of Richmond, the house burger is given a good Gallic seeing to in place of regular Americanised buns. Better still, the patty itself is made of minced beef rib cap: the connoisseur’s burger cut. Tres bon.
What To Order: The Duke Burger – a 6oz patty laden with confit shallots, béarnaise sauce and pokey Roquefort. Zut.
318 Queensbridge Road, E8 3NH
thedukeofrichmond.com
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